Saturday, July 17, 2004

si satchanalai

that's where i was for most of the day. It's about 1.5h from sukhothai, and relatively deserted. Less than 10 backpackers and the occasional bunch of locals. And 2 tour buses. Some of the sites i went to are so deserted (2-5km away from the main complex- which seemed close enough until i started cycling) that everyone looked surpised to see me. The attendent will either not be there or sleeping and the paths everywhere are overgrown. Explanatary signages in the middle of a bush or covered with leaves. Very nice. I got moo-ed at by the cows, chased by a dog, nearly ran over a snake (it was small n i wasn't looking down till it moved), cycled with the singing neighbourhood boys for a stretch and saw lots of chickens crossing the road. I believe it's either to join their friends or maybe they thought there's better food over there. Nice view of river along the road too. Unfortunately it was drizzling so i didn't want to stop to photograph it.

The best part was this wat on a hill (mountain of fire?-wat for fire worship). I was really quite tired n butt v pain after all the cycling on the v bumpy v dusty roads and when i saw the stairs i almost didn't want to go up... But then i walked closer and found that it was really quite magical... imagine filtered sunlight, a long long flight of steps made of a reddish hue-d stone riddled with holes, mossy and overgrown with weeds, and small white butterflies dancing just above the steps all the way up, interpersed with yellow butterflies and some of more vibrant and complex patterns... sigh... and a lovely ruin of a wat with some dead white trees on top...

There's another wat where they found human skeletons and it's exhibited there. except there was a very dusty bench in front of the excavation/research center's entrance. But I managed to peer in through the again very dusty window and see the pits and the skeletons. They kind of look like those fossils in rock except human shaped. Very cool...

And of course i took longer at the place then most people, and as its super ulu in the first place, i ended up waiting by the side of the main road in the middle of nowhere for half an hour hoping for a bus and wondering if i will have to start hitch-hiking.. then i flagged the bus too late and had to run for it. Just glad they stopped for me.. And everyone thought i was thai! Think locals don't have to pay for some temples but i always go up to pay and they always look surprised but my cover's too easily blown so didn't want to cheat =P Also i don't get hasseled the way the farangs do.

sardines. I'm quite sure that's what he meant cos a lot more was said then what i wrote, but of course he didn't ask outright (!) so no need to do the death stare. I just smile.. always smile..

Nights getting a bit better. Maybe i'm getting used to it..maybe its cos more lone travellers at the non-guidebook listed place i'm staying at then before when it was all couples (the men are always nicer then the women. sigh).

Travelling alone is good. Own time own target, no worries. Trying to decide between changmai and kanchanaburi for next (and prob last before bangkok) destination. HY mentioned there's a lot of nua-ing here.. of course.. by abt 3 or 4pm i get tired and just bum ard town. And can't sleep at night so hard to get up v early. Spent yesterday evening watching the local fitness freaks at the park dancing to english pop. I guess aunties everywhere are the same =)

bird flu. I really don't feel the bird flu here. People still carrying on eating as usual, but i haven't had chicken unless accidentally. Confirm will have chicken craving by the time i get back. The chicken here looks really good btw. Been keeping updated on the situation by reading Bangkok Post here and the Straits Times online. Don't worry folks, it should be safe to meet me when i get back =)

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